Taking better care of your dry or very dry skin.
Protecting your skin from harsh cold weather.

Chat led by Doctor Laurence BEILLE, Dermatologist, Grenoble.


Chat transcription:


Question 1
Internet user: Is soap harsh on dry skin?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Soap is indeed harsh on dry skin. Soap is an aggressive detergent because it has an alkaline pH while the skin has an acid pH. It will destroy the surface hydrolipidic film and cause dry skin. Cleansing agents need to respect the skin's pH which is 5.5 on average.
Prefer soap-free, solid (syndet) or liquid (gel) soaps, cleansing oils, cleansing lotions and micellar solutions.
Dermo-cosmetic laboratories make all kinds of cleansers tailored to all needs. To find out if the cleansing product you use is tailored to dry skin, simply listen to your skin. If it doesn’t pull after cleansing, then it's fine!

Question 2
Internet user: Is it possible to prevent dry skin?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Dry skin is often genetic, and may or may not be related to a genetic dermatosis. However, even if there is no genetic predisposition, the skin will become dry as it ages.
Aggressive external factors increase cutaneous dryness, either through a detergent action on the hydrolipidic film and the lipids in the horny layer, or by increasing the evaporation of water in the skin. These factors are: alkaline detergents, physical traumas (exfoliation, peeling, exaggerated friction, frequent washing), heat especially when it is dry, the wind, cold, etc.
So to prevent dryness, avoid irritating the skin by using non-alkaline mild detergents. Do not cleanse the skin too often and apply moisturizing creams or lotions enriched with lipids, whose composition resembles the horny layer’s intercellular cement, and with biological factors that are capable of retaining water in the stratum corneum, such as urea, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, etc.

Question 3
Internet user: Why is my skin always drier and more sensitive in the winter than in the summer?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Firstly because the cold irritates the skin. Secondly, maybe you are extremely sensitive to the cold, which causes itching? Try to moisturize your skin once or twice a day.
In the summer, it all depends on the degree of moisture in the atmosphere. The more humid and hotter it is outside, the more moisturized the skin will be. But when the weather is hot and dry, a lot of water in the skin evaporates and the skin is dry. Are you perhaps going to the tropics?

Question 4
Internet user: When it’s cold out, are our skin pores tighter?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Indeed, the pores are tighter when it is cold out and the sweat glands secrete less than when it is hot. The skin has heat sensors that enable it to adapt sweat and sebaceous secretions to the temperature.

Question 5
Internet user: Is dry skin more easily and quickly vulnerable to wrinkles?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Yes, dry skin is often thinner and is more vulnerable to wrinkles. It wrinkles faster because it is less resistant than properly hydrated skin.

Question 6
Internet user: My skin is very dry. When it’s cold out, I feel a need to moisturize my skin even more. So I put much more cream on in the morning. Is it a good idea to use more cream when it is cold outside?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Yes, thoroughly moisturize your skin once or twice a day with richer creams. Dermo-cosmetic laboratories sell balms — creams enriched with oil, that are highly effective.

Question 7
Internet user: How many times a day should I moisturize my skin, which is very dry, especially on my legs?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Twice a day is sufficient. You can use two types of lotions: one with a composition rich in urea and lactic acid or fruit acids and another rich in lipid-enriching agents. They do not have exactly the same physical-chemical properties and their actions are complementary. There are also creams that are very rich in lipids that form an occlusive film on the skin such as cold cream, cerate and shea butter. But they are less pleasant to use.

Question 8
Internet user: What can I do to stop having small dry, white scales between my eyes?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: We need to take a look at what these white scales are. I think you have seborrhoeic dermatitis. I therefore recommend that you go see a dermatologist to check it out and to prescribe an appropriate treatment.
In the meantime, use water-free cleansers, preferably a milk or a micellar lotion, and use moisturizing creams or specific creams for seborrhoeic dermatitis.

Question 9
Internet user: How should I care for my very dry skin, especially in the winter, while protecting it from ageing (fine lines and wrinkles)?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Moisture replenishment is already an anti-ageing strategy. If you want to do more, either you use anti-ageing creams with more moisture (enriched with lipid agents) or, first you apply anti-ageing serums that you allow to penetrate by massaging in thoroughly, and then you apply a moisturizing cream.
Just remember that the bases of anti-ageing treatment are moisture and sun protection!
Wrinkles will be treated more effectively through injections of hyaluronic acid.

Question 10
Internet user: How can I prevent redness caused by the cold?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: It all depends on the type of redness. Either its origin is vascular, or it is the result of heightened skin sensitivity that causes an inflammatory state.
If it is a vascular disorder, there are creams with vasculoprotective active ingredients; all the big dermo-cosmetic brands sell them. They are anti-redness creams.
If it is a case of sensitive skin, moisturize it thoroughly with creams for sensitive skin with few active ingredients. There are high-tolerance products on the market.

Question 11
Internet user: How should I treat very, very dry feet?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: That’s an everyday battle, because it’s a genetic predisposition!
Pumice them once or twice a week and moisturize them once or twice a day with specific foot moisturizing and stripping products made with urea. Wearing socks right after applying the cream increases its efficacy.
Avoid walking with bare feet – it intensifies the dryness. Avoid calluses, which cause painful heel cracks. Pumice and moisturize!

Question 12
Internet user: Should I moisturize my dry skin before going to bed?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Yes, I recommend that you moisturize your skin in the morning and at night.

Question 13
Internet user: In the winter, my skin is very dry, especially on my hands, which sometimes leads to cuts. Do you have a solution?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: There aren’t many solutions, but I can give you some advice. Don’t wash your hands too often. Moisturize them as often as possible with specific creams and, at night, if you are not planning to touch anything else, apply a thick layer of an ultra-rich healing cream, for example in front of TV or in bed. Wear soft gloves during the day and protective gloves when doing dishes. Just common sense.

Question 14
Internet user: Can the cold weather be an ally for my skin and its moisture? Does the cold have only negative effects?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Cold weather is fairly harsh on the skin, but I don't really have an opinion in this regard. That said, when I see the faces of Tibetans exposed to bad weather, they seem to have aged a lot!

Question 15
Internet user: Can dry skin be hereditary?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Yes, it’s often a genetic predisposition.

Question 16
Internet user: My facial skin is highly reactive to temperature changes (more to the hot than the cold). It is therefore often red. What should I do? What type of cream should I use?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: You probably have reactive skin with vascular phenomena. Use vasculoprotective creams. As I said earlier, all the laboratories sell them.

Question 17
Internet user: In the winter, I tend to have dry skin that is reactive to shower gels (patches, tight skin, etc.). What products do you recommend? Are these products also suitable for my children?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: To cleanse your skin, use liquid or solid syndets or cleansing oils. Moisturize your body once or twice a day with ultra-rich moisturizing lotions or balms. Don’t hesitate to use products for atopic skin. All the big dermo-cosmetic laboratories sell them!
These products are perfectly suitable for children, except for those with high urea concentrations, but the product's packaging will indicate this. For itching sensations, some lotions contain vitamin PP or Nicotinamide which has a calming effect on the skin (for example, Atoderm PP Anti-récidive).

Question 18
Internet user: Does diet play a role in skin dryness?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: I think that diet is extremely important for the skin like for the rest of the body. Simply give it all it needs: water, vitamins, trace elements, minerals, proteins, essential fatty acids, etc. All this can be found in a healthy and balanced diet. There is no need to supplement a balanced diet. It could even be dangerous to give a normally fed body too many vitamins.
However, in the winter, when the skin is dry, the intake of polyunsaturated fatty acids such as omega-3 and -6 fatty acids improves the skin's quality.

Question 19
Internet user: I have combination skin and I would like to treat my face’s dry areas. Can you tell me what to do, particularly in the winter?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Use two creams if the moisture difference is too large. On the T-zone, use a shine-control or medicated cream for acne-prone skin and on the outer area, use a moisturizing cream for acne-prone skin. Most dermo-cosmetic laboratories sell them!

Question 20
Internet user: I live in the Alps, where the air is very dry and cool. The skin on my lips, hands and face is dry and sensitive. What care products should I use and how often during the day? Do I need special protection when it snows?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Use ultra-moisturizing creams twice a day. If it is sunny, systematically apply an index 30 or 50 sun cream in addition to the moisturizing cream. Cleanse your skin with a milk or a micellar lotion.
If the moisture is not sufficient, you can use cold creams. Some brands sell these products.
Don’t forget the 50+ sunscreen when you are exposed to the sun, knowing that exposure simply means being outside in the mountains.

Question 21
Internet user: What can I do if the areas affected by dry eczema have taken on a different colour than the rest of my skin, one year later, even though there’s no more eczema?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: You need to wait, and thoroughly moisturize your skin once or twice a day. This difference will decrease gradually, but you need to be patient. The sun is anti-inflammatory for atopic skin, but be careful and use it in moderation!

Question 22
Internet user: Peelings on dry skin feel harsh. However, they are important to remove dead skin. What should we do?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Peelings are not mandatory. It depends on the skin type. They should be avoided if your skin is thin and dry. You can absolutely use a moderately aggressive cream made with fruit acids two or three times a week, depending on your skin's tolerance, and alternate with moisturizing creams with varying concentrations of anti-ageing agents. The fruit acids will gently exfoliate while moisturizing the skin. Peelings are not necessary skin care rituals.

Question 23
Internet user: Three years ago, I treated my acne with Roaccutane and my skin became extremely dry. My acne has started to come back recently, but I don’t know what to use for my face. When I apply a special acne cream, my face feels tight all day long and my skin becomes rough. What should I do?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Indeed, Roaccutane causes secondary dryness. I recommend that you use creams made with fruit acids once a day and alternate with a moisturizing cream for acne-prone skin. You can see a dermatologist for appropriate skin treatments that will cleanse microcysts. But not all dermatologists perform this procedure.

Question 24
Internet user: Should I avoid water (especially baths) if I have dry skin?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: You should avoid long baths. However, you can add specific oils for dry skin (emollient oils) to the bath water, which will limit the water's harmful effects.

Question 25
Internet user: Can dry skin cause eczema? My daughter, who is two months old, has very dry skin and eczema. What care products do you suggest to keep babies from having this problem?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Obviously, your daughter has atopic skin. You should see a dermatologist to treat it specifically.
In the meantime, avoid long baths, use cleansing oils and moisturize her skin once or twice a day with lipid-enriched balms tailored to the atopic skin of babies, which are sold in pharmacies.

Question 26
Internet user: What ingredients does a cream need to contain to moisturize properly?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: There are several types of moisturizing agents, but currently, the ideal composition is a combination of lipids: ceramide, cholesterol and polyunsaturated fatty acids. The moisturizing products for dry skin sold by major dermo-cosmetic laboratories all contain this winning trio and each add other optional moisturizing and anti-irritating agents.

Question 27
Internet user: Are there natural products that can moisturize the skin?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Most so-called natural products also contain preservatives and other adjuvants. So they aren’t really that natural after all. Right now, organic products are all the rage but you should know that dermo-cosmetic laboratories comply with AFSSAPS' specific requirements and formulate sophisticated products that are perfectly tailored to the skin. In my opinion, they are far from being as dangerous as organic companies claim they are. Organic companies also follow the laws of business.

Question 28
Internet user: What should we think of so-called moisturizing shower gels, with moisturizing oil or milk, sold in supermarkets? Are they really effective or is it better to buy shower gels from health and beauty stores?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Some neutral products enriched with moisturizing agents that are sold in supermarkets are quite good. Listen to the way your skin feels after you take a shower. If your skin doesn’t feel tight after you wash it, then the product is good for you!

Question 29
Internet user: With pregnancy, my skin is much drier and sensitive than usual. What is the most appropriate product for my face?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: If your skin is not usually dry, this condition will probably be temporary. During this period, use a richer cream than usual and apply moisturizing masks from time to time.

Question 30
Internet user: What type of make-up remover do you recommend for dry skin: micellar waters, wipes, make-up removing products?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Again, it's a matter of how you feel. Preferably use a cleansing milk that may or may not need to be rinsed with a thermal water. Lotions and milky waters are fine as well. It all depends on what product types you prefer.

Question 31
Internet user: In the winter, my body gets very dry and when I take off my clothes, they are covered with dead skin. Is a specific shower gel sufficient or do I need to use moisturizing cream or my paraffin oil, even if I find it long and fastidious?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Cleansing is not enough, but it will always be better with a cleansing oil than with another product. You need to moisturize your skin once or twice a day. Again, pharmacies and health and beauty stores sell enriched moisturizing lotions that are extremely well formulated for your skin type. It will certainly be more cosmetic than paraffin oil. If you like thick products, use “water in oil” solutions, which are oilier and will remind you of paraffin.

Question 32
Internet user: I have the impression that I have more wrinkles on one cheek than the other and that it's because I systematically sleep on that side. Is that possible?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Yes, it's possible. Firstly, everyone has an asymmetric face and it is quite possible to have each side age a bit differently. Secondly, always sleeping on the same side can cause wrinkles when the skin is slack.

Question 33
Internet user: I have dry skin. What essential care products do I need to use every day?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: It all depends on your skin type. Generally, for very dry skin, cleanse with a gentle product in the morning and at night (either a cleansing cream, or a milk, or a micellar solution), apply a moisturizing cream in the morning and at night, and use solar protection if you are exposed to the sun. Moisture and sun protection are the bases of skin care.

Question 34
Internet user: It is often said that dry skin is sensitive, but what are the visible characteristics of these two skin types?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Dry skin is often thin, rough, coarse, desquamating and covered with small wrinkles. These signs worsen with the cold and wind. Dry skin and some oily skin can be sensitive. Sensitive skin causes sensations of tightness and stinging with frequent redness. These are skin types that are not very tolerant and that quickly become inflamed.

Question 35
Internet user: If I use an atomizer on my skin, will it limit dryness?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: The use of water alone dries rather than moisturizes the skin. You can mist water onto your skin but you then need to quickly apply a hydrolipidic cream to retain the water in the horny layer. Otherwise, it will increase the evaporation of water and you will obtain the opposite effect of what you were looking for.

Question 36
Internet user: Is it true that you’re supposed to drink at least 1 litre of water per day when you have dry skin?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Water alone will not moisturize the skin. You also need to consume fats of plant or animal origin (preferably fish) that contain polyunsaturated fatty acids. Prefer plant products such as walnuts, hazelnuts, almonds, canola oils, olive oils and fish oils. Water is an essential element and I recommend that you drink at least one litre of water per day.

Question 37
Internet user: Whenever it's cold out, I have chapped lips and I always carry around chap-stick made with shea. Can I do something to prevent this? Do I have to apply my chap-stick several times a day? (The skin on the rest of my face is mostly oily/combination).
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Unfortunately, I think you need to resign yourself to regularly moisturizing your lips. You can also occasionally apply a rich healing cream (such as Cicabio or another cream made with zinc copper).

Question 38
Internet user: Are UV sessions really harmful if it remains reasonable, i.e. a few winter maintenance sessions to have a glowing complexion?
Doctor Laurence BEILLE: Yes, it’s not a lie. UV sessions are really harmful for the skin. They promote not only the onset of skin cancers but also ageing. I really don’t recommend them.


^{This transcription does not necessarily represent all the discussions that occurred during the chat..}